Lemberger
Austria's Blaufränkisch under its American name: a peppery, dark-fruited cool-climate red that does well in Washington, the Finger Lakes and northern Michigan.
Lemberger is the American name for Blaufränkisch, the signature red grape of Austria. It's also grown in Hungary as Kékfrankos and in Germany as Lemberger or Limberger. It ripens well in cool climates and handles cold better than most European red grapes, which has made it a quiet star in Washington, the Finger Lakes and northern Michigan.
What It Tastes Like
Lemberger makes medium-bodied, deeply colored reds with black cherry, blackberry and plum, a streak of black pepper and spice, and lively acidity. Tannins are present but fine-grained. The best versions taste like a cross between Pinot Noir's freshness and Syrah's spice. It also makes a good, savory rosé.
Where It Grows
Washington was the first American region to take Lemberger seriously, with plantings in the Yakima Valley dating to the 1970s. In the Finger Lakes and Michigan, many wineries now label it Blaufränkisch, and it does well on the Leelanau Peninsula and Old Mission Peninsula. You'll also find it in Pennsylvania, Idaho, Ohio and New Jersey.
What to Look For
- Dry Lemberger or Blaufränkisch, especially with a few years of age.
- Lemberger rosé, a savory summer pour.
- Red blends with Cabernet Franc or Zweigelt.
Worth Knowing
Lemberger and Blaufränkisch are the same grape. American wineries are increasingly using the Austrian name, partly because English speakers kept confusing Lemberger with the pungent Limburger cheese.
Where to Find Lemberger
Wine regions on American Winery Guide where Lemberger is grown or poured: